Members ofthe genus Billbergia can usually be recognized by the form of the rosette, which has only a few leaves and is most often tubular (cylindrical), or at least narrowly vase-shaped. The spineedged leaves are often spotted or banded with complex patterns of bright colors, especially the newer hybrids. Many have spectacular inflorescences, but they are rarely grown for that reason because they stay colorful for barely two weeks. Form and foliage colors are the billbergias' claim to glory.
A few of the ca. 60 Billbergia species have broad funnelform rosettes and are difficult to distinguish from Aechmea. In addition to the spineless sepals, nearly all billbergias have pendent inflorescences, and the long, strap-shaped petals are often recurved or coiled. Billbergias are highly recommended for beginners. They have extraordinary form, and the newer hybrids are stunningly colorful. They are also among the easiest bromeliads to grow. Try them in hanging containers because they tend to look their best when viewed from below. Light shining through the leaves from above makes them particularly beautiful, and the pendulous flower spikes will be easy to see. LIGHT. Billbergias need high light to develop good color and form; in too little light the erect leaves of the tubular types become excessively long and may break. Outdoors or in a greenhouse, 50% to 65% shade cloth is recommended for sunny climates, which translates to 3500 to 5000 footcandles; they can acclimate to about 9000 footcandles (almost full sun) with high humidity. In windows indoors, give them about 3000 footcandles; more sun may burn the foliage. TEMPERATURE. Billbergias tolerate temperature extremes; they are not damaged by several degrees of frost (ca. 25°F/-4°C) or periods at 115°F/47°C. (For specialists: the helicoid group suffers below about 40°F/5°C.) At very high temperatures and high light, foliage color and contrast fade. No permanent damage is done; color returns with more moderate temperatures. AIR. Follow basic culture. WATERING. Follow basic culture. POTTING AND 2§ MOUNTING. Follow basic culture. Billbergias do well mounted as well as potted. Either way they form beautiful colonies in a few years. FEEDING. Follow basic culture. Overfertilizing ruins foliage color and plant form; the plants will produce elongated leaves that are prone to break. PROPAGATION. Billbergia pups are usually produced on thick, very tough stolons. When the stolons are very short, considerable effort is needed to separate pups from clumps. See suggestions under Aechmea.